nonnative DWELLER JEANS

COVERCHORD FEATURE

nonnative DWELLER JEANS

JAPANESE

Many well-loved brands have certain items that are considered iconic of the label. When we think of nonnative, that item is pants.
Known for affixing character names to its products, such as TROOPER for military wear inspired garments or HIKER referencing outdoor wear influences, nonnative’s character names represent the essence of each item. Perhaps the most iconic nonnative character is the DWELLER, and the DWELLER JEANS its most iconic item. The long-selling seasonal offering is updated each collection with new fabrications and colors, while variations on the standard model have also been offered throughout the years. This season sees nonnative present a brand new silhouette to sit alongside its existing designs. We asked nonnative designer Takayuki Fujii for some background on his classic DWELLER JEANS and his thinking behind the development of a new style.
“If I’m buying something from a brand for the first time, the first thing I’ll pick up is a staple product, a core item that is continuously produced and has been for a long time” Fujii explains.
nonnative’s DWELLER series of products are just such staple items, sitting at the core of the brand’s seasonal collections. The series encompasses men’s wardrobe essentials such as T-shirts, sweatshirts, boots, sunglasses and the most indispensible item of all, blue jeans. Devoid of unnecessary ornamentation, DWELLER JEANS remain true to the universal image of denim, but also offer an elevated modern style through their subtle, functional detailing, exceptionally comfortable fit and balanced silhouette. The ease-of-wear and consistent quality is what makes them a classic, and is also the reason it’s not uncommon for people to have multiple pairs in their closet. While customers can have confidence in the jeans’ fit and style season after season, the design is actually fine tuned every season.
“We use different fabrics and different washes every season, so we need to rework the patterns each time, adjusting for different shrinkage ratios and accounting for the way the denim reacts to all the different treatments and processing”
With the standard models constantly evolving, there is also scope for new variations of the classic model to be born, with this season seeing the introduction of the DROPPED FIT silhouette.
“I came up with this style to match the kind of shoes I’m wearing these days, and also considering the sizing of tops being worn at the moment.”
The standard “USUAL FIT” model is essentially the original, classic silhouette, the TAPERED FIT was then developed to offer a slimmer fitting option, and now the DROPPED FIT has been added, providing a third variation for the DWELLER JEANS line up.
“I’d prefer that people didn’t decide what size they were and just persist with that. It’s better to try different sizes with different silhouettes and see what feels good and works best. Different fabrics have different feelings, some have stretch in them, other do not, its always best to try stuff on to decide what’s most comfortable and fits best.”

USUAL FIT

The classic DWELLER model combines durable construction with timeless detailing and sleek silhouette. The jeans can be recognized by their ‘home-plate’ shaped back pockets. The deep s-curve shaped front pockets ensure both hands and small items can be easily put in and taken out. Additionally, the coin pocket does not sit in a regular horizontal position but instead is nestled diagonally inside the front pocket which is the optimal angle for the hand. The jeans feature darts behind the knees which ensures there is no excess fabric at the hip and also provides added mobility in the leg.
“This is the first DWELLER JEANS we made. When I designed it I was conscious of creating a style that worked with a variety of different footwear.”
This season’s jeans are constructed from 13oz Japanese denim, and are offered in single wash and vintage wash options.




TAPERED FIT

The DWELLER TAPERED FIT JEANS are designed to provide a very slim silhouette while not restricting freedom of movement or comfort. Through the application of stretch fabrics the jeans fit comfortably on the leg. Darted seams behind the knees ensure the jeans do not lose their shape even with years of use, as well as maximizing mobility of the leg. Discernable for their rounded back pockets, the current season’s offering is constructed from 13oz Japanese denim, and offered in single wash and vintage wash variations.




DROPPED FIT

“For the DROPPED FIT I imagined that the waist would be dropped slightly, the hip pocket would be slightly larger than the other two models and the crotch sits slightly lower. This creates slightly more volume around the thighs and behind.” The iconic darts on the back of the knee of the other two models have been removed as their funciton is not required with this new slightly roomier style, particularly given the fabric also contains a stretch.
"I think of it as an evolution of tight-fitting pants. As it has a slightly larger volume around the waist it is easier to pair with larger silhouette tops and to match with sneakers. This seasos is manufactured in 13oz Japanese denim and offered in single wash and vintage wash variations.



PHOTOGRAPH : COVERCHORD
TEXT : RUI KONNO