COVERCHORD FEATURE

nonnative × UNDERCOVER
OZISM
2024 SS COLLECTION vol.2

Fashion label OZISM was first revealed by Jun Takahashi of Undercover, and nonnative designer, Takayuki Fujii, in 2022. The first release from their collaboration was comprised of a select number of items, focused on samue style garments made with Polartec fleece.Now, the third installment of their OZISM collaboration has just been announced.

Over this four-part series, we will explore the origins of the collaborative monozukuri※1 undertaken by these two designers. While they have both been in the fashion world for a long time, OZISM is distinctive from their respective brands. We will also delve into this spring’s collection, the highlight of which is its use of washi paper and natural kusakizome (plant dye) techniques in the garment fabrication.

Text_ Rui Konno
Editor.
Editor. Born in 1987. Active primarily in the fashion field.

THEMATIC REPORT
#2 OZISM

Unveiling the complete picture of the label OZISM, which deviates from the conventional practices of existing collection releases and fashion business norms, through a comprehensive four-part series.

In Part 2, we will summarize the testimony of Jun Takahashi, the designer behind UNDERCOVER, on the influence of Yasujirō Ozu, the film director who gave the label its distinctive name, and its current outlook.

The Formative Experience of Ozu's Films

The first Ozu film Takahashi encountered was Tokyo Story, around the age of twenty, almost at the same time as the founding of UNDERCOVER.

“Compared to the more entertaining films of directors like Akira Kurosawa and Kenji Mizoguchi that I had been watching until then, Ozu's films are very quiet. Although there was something lingering about them, at first, they didn't quite resonate with me. However, when I watched them again after turning forty and started to think about my own family and children, I began to feel the distance between family members depicted in Ozu's films more realistically. Ozu's films are appreciated worldwide, and I wonder if it's because the themes of family and bonds are universally relatable.”

Ozu-ism in OZISM

Yasujirō Ozu, often discussed not only for his works but also for his words, doesn't particularly interest Jun Takahashi when it comes to his sayings.

“I'm not much of a words person, so maybe that's not where I connect. Instead, I resonate a lot with his way of life and his approach to creation. However, when it comes to the phrase 'For matters of art, follow yourself,' I can't help but agree. It does make one nod in agreement that creators find themselves there, doesn't it? I have a sense of realization that the older I get, the more important it is to have an unyielding core and to be able to accept things without getting attached to them.”

Tokyo Story,1953, directed by Yasujirō Ozu, ©Shochiku Co., Ltd.

OZISM T-shirt

While there are times when we follow Ozu's spiritual essence, there are also instances where we directly focus on specific elements. Print T-shirts exemplify the latter, with this spring featuring two films, Tokyo Story and Good Morning.

“I still think Tokyo Story is a wonderful film, but among its scenes, this one stands out. Actually, another option was Floating Weeds, which I also liked because it's one of Yasujirō Ozu's films that's quite entertaining. However, for visual appeal, we chose Good Morning because it's in color and it's a rare comedy in Ozu's works. I also like the image of these brothers as a picture. I think it's just right that you can't see it by yourself, so we put it on the back print.”

Good Morning,1959, directed by Yasujirō Ozu, ©Shochiku Co., Ltd.

Methodology of Monozukuri※1

In the creation of products, OZISM and UNDERCOVER, which Jun Takahashi has been running for over 30 years, have significantly different approaches and methods.

“In the fashion industry, speed is inevitably crucial. With UNDERCOVER, including men's and women's, and presentations in Paris, we have eight exhibitions a year and two shows, so we have to disperse the amount of energy we put into each product to a certain extent or else we won't be able to make any progress. However, I've always had a complex about people who delve deeply into one thing, research it, and then create something. I think you could call it a yearning. Updating the same piece of clothing by gradually changing the silhouette and fabric while wearing it in everyday life―a method that we can't employ in UNDERCOVER. But with OZISM, it's okay. That’s fun.”

※1 Monozukuri is a Japanese word that means "making things" and refers to a unique Japanese manufacturing style that values craftsmanship and continuous improvement.

Clothes for a free way of life

OZISM's clothing is more like tools than fashion. The attitude of Takahashi and Fujii here is to experiment and improve repeatedly at their own pace. Therefore, they consciously distance themselves from many constraints and continue to create things whenever they feel like it.

“It might be difficult to make a living solely with OZISM and create whenever we like. But both Fujii and I have our respective main professions or brands. We aim to create only the clothes we need as a minimum for spring, summer, fall, and winter, and try to update them as we go. There's no need to force ourselves to create, and if we get tired of it, we can stop. I think it's cool to always wear the same clothes, like Juzo Itami, who preferred China jackets, and I want to be like that too. I want to help people who are looking for a free way of life. I think it makes sense to effortlessly create something that is easy to wear, and that's what OZISM is all about.”

nonnative × UNDERCOVER
OZISM
2024 SPRING - SUMMER COLLECTION
2nd DELIVERY

When the collaboration between the two Japanese brands became fruition about two years ago, the theme was OZISM. Inspired by the film director Yasujirō Ozu, this wording finds common ground in reconsidering Japanese aesthetics, history, and background, with both designers adopting the tagline -Portraits of Modern Japanese- as an expression of their sympathy and respect for Ozu.
For the Spring/Summer 2024 season, the focus was on  garments using washi, the traditional Japanese paper as a primary material. In addition to serving as a source of inspiration, the use of this material embodies uniquely Japanese ideas and aesthetics.

In the second delivery, available on April 20th, T-shirts featuring scenes from Yasujirō Ozu's films Good Morning and Tokyo Story will be released.

Through the creativity of OZISM, products have been developed to widely promote the works of Yasujirō Ozu and the activities of SHONAN YUEIZA.
The proceeds from the sale of these T-shirts will be used to support the activities of SHONAN YUEIZA, supporting not only the films of Yasujirō Ozu but also the promotion and development of film and art.

The "MONK" series, named after the association with “SAMU,” which means the work done by monks in Zen temples, features a full-zip hoodie and GRAMICCI easy shorts.
It includes a full-zip hoodie, GRAMICCI easy shorts, hats inspired by the Metro Hat beloved by Yasujirō Ozu, caps, and tabi socks.

OZISM
SS TEE - 1

A short-sleeve T-shirt featuring a scene from Yasujirō Ozu's film Good Morning on the back. The front features a "NU" embroidery detail.

Good Morning,1959, directed by Yasujirō Ozu, ©Shochiku Co., Ltd.

Price_¥13,000
Color_WHITE, NAVY, BLACK

OZISM
SS TEE - 2

A short-sleeve T-shirt featuring a scene from Yasujirō Ozu's film Tokyo Story on the back. The front features a "NU" embroidery detail.

Tokyo Story,1953, directed by Yasujirō Ozu, ©Shochiku Co., Ltd.

Price_¥13,000
Color_WHITE, NAVY, BLACK

MONK FULL ZIP HOODY
COTTON PAPER SWEAT OVERDYED

Based on nonnative's DWELLER FULL ZIP HOODY, updated with a blend of washi (Japanese paper) in the material, "OZISM" branding, and UNDERCOVER's zipper.

Price_¥37,800
Color_BROWN, CHARCOAL

WALKER EASY SHORTS
COTTON PAPER VIERA OVERDYED
by GRAMICCI

Easy shorts from GRAMICCI with a slightly relaxed silhouette and one pleat.
Made from a blend of cotton and washi for a lightweight feel.

Price_¥36,800
Color_NATURAL, BROWN, CHARCOAL

MONK METRO HAT
COTTON PAPER VIERA OVERDYED

A hat designed in the style of the Metro Hat, beloved by Yasujirō Ozu, with a soft texture using the same material as the garments.
Features embroidered branding.

Price_¥18,800
Color_NATURAL, BROWN, CHARCOAL

MONK JET CAP
COTTON PAPER VIERA OVERDYED

A jet cap made from the same soft material as the garments.
Features "NU" embroidery on the front.

Price_¥15,800
Color_NATURAL, BROWN, CHARCOAL

MONK TABI SOCKS
POLY PAPER WOVEN

Socks inspired by tabi footwear.
Made from polyester and washi woven for breathability and a dry feel.

Price_¥3,800
Color_NATURAL, BROWN, CHARCOAL

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