COVERCHORD FEATURE

nonnative × UNDERCOVER
OZISM
2024 SS COLLECTION
vol.1

Understated yet distinctive – that’s OZISM.
With the latest collection released on March 16th, let’s take a look at what makes it unique.

Fashion label OZISM was first revealed by Jun Takahashi of Undercover, and nonnative designer, Takayuki Fujii, in 2022. The first release from their collaboration was comprised of a select number of items, focused on samue style garments made with Polartec fleece.Now, the third installment of their OZISM collaboration has just been announced.

Over this four-part series, we will explore the origins of the collaborative monozukuri※1 undertaken by these two designers. While they have both been in the fashion world for a long time, OZISM is distinctive from their respective brands. We will also delve into this spring’s collection, the highlight of which is its use of washi paper and natural kusakizome (plant dye) techniques in the garment fabrication. 　

Text_Rui Konno
Editor. Born in 1987. Focused mainly on fashion.

Translation_Yuko Caroline Omura

※1 Monozukuri is a Japanese word that means "making things" and refers to a unique Japanese manufacturing style that values craftsmanship and continuous improvement.

THEMATIC REPORT
#1 SAMUE

About Samue

The origins of Samue or Samui, as they are sometimes called, are not fully known. However, their history is surprisingly recent – they are said to have appeared during the Meiji period at the earliest.
Samu refers to the work done by monks in Zen temples, while the character used for the “e” means clothes. Thus, Samue are, as their name suggests, work clothes worn by Zen monks. There isn’t one fixed design for Samue, however, they are most commonly collared jackets that open at the front to make them easy to take on and off. Nowadays, many come as a top and bottom set, but originally, they would have just been a jacket.
Samue, as durable Japanese workwear, have always been a key item in the OZISM wardrobe.

About Polartec

Polartec is a napped soft fabric made from polyethylene terephthalate, made by Malden Mills USA, and is also their registered trademark. It has many advantages over other fleeces, such as superior absorbency and heat retention properties, as well as being extremely lightweight. With both Takahashi and Fujii being interested in the outdoors and also sharing an appreciation of functionality, OSIZM featured Polartec as a central material in its first and second instalments.

September 2023, Exhibition in Paris

Being half forced to focus on the domestic Japanese arena during the pandemic actually helped to solidify the concept behind OZISM. By the time of the third release, travel restrictions had been lifted, and the collaboration held its first overseas exhibition in Paris. At the time of OZISM’s conception, the designers had the idea to use an approach based on Japanese culture. However, this concept was initially shelved in order to distance the label from the stereotypical “Japanese-style” product. This idea was instead put into action for the first time during this international release, where a more objective reception could be expected.

UNDERCOVER Collection in Paris
OZISM 2024 SS COLLECTIION – Joint Exhibition

Washi and Kusakizome

When people hear the word washi many will think of the Japanese paper and wonder what application it could have in the world of textiles or clothing, however when we say washi here, we’re referring to fabric made by weaving threads spun from washi fibers. Although the raw materials may be the same, the production method is distinctly different from that used to make washi paper, which is made by filtering and then binding the fibers together. Washi has many merits as a fabric, such as being highly absorbent and retaining heat well, as well as being breathable, being a natural deodorizer, and being able to cut out UV rays without the need for any chemical treatment. The fabric used by OZISM is made by combining this washi thread with cotton.
This installment of the OZISM collaboration uses a dyeing technique called Kusakizome. The dyes come from Sophora japonica (Japanese pagoda tree), Ternstroemia gymnanthera (Japanese ternstroemia) and Punica granatum (pomegranate), with each plant corresponding with one of the three color variations, NATURAL, BROWN, and CHARCOAL. The dyeing all takes place in Kurashiki city, Okayama prefecture.

nonnative × UNDERCOVER
OZISM
2024 SPRING - SUMMER COLLECTION
1st DELIVERY

The latest OZISM collection arrival: Saturday 16 March.
Approximately two years ago, OZISM was chosen as the theme for this collaboration between two Japanese brands. The collaboration is inspired by “Portraits of Modern Japanese” and represents a mutual desire to re-examine Japanese aesthetics, history, and traditions. A tribute to the late Japanese film director Yasujirō Ozu, OZISM also represents a shared appreciation and respect for Ozu.
The spring/summer ’24 season is centered on garments made using washi. Uniquely Japanese ideas and aesthetics feature not only as inspiration but also as part of the raw materials used in this collection.
The first delivery consists of a new style jacket and coat, named MONK as a nod to samu, and accompanying pants.
Print tees featuring illustrations by Taku Furukawa will also be released as a tribute to Ozu and as a way to transmit his legacy to future generations.

MONK JACKET
COTTON PAPER VIERA OVERDYED

This jacket could be the signature item in the OZISM wardrobe. Inspired by the notion of “a daily-wear samue”. Also made from a cotton/washi blend, like the coat.
Features double-button snap buttons as a new update for this season.

MONK LONG COAT
COTTON PAPER VIERA OVERDYED
WITH GORE-TEX WINDSTOPPER®

Bal collar work coat made from cotton/washi blend. The body has a GORE-TEX (WINDSTOPPER®) lining for excellent windbreaking and moisture permeable qualities.
The natural color achieved through kusakizome and the relaxed silhouette make for a light and comfortable fit. The back has zippable side vents.

MONK CARDIGAN
POLY PAPER YARN

Cardigan made from a mixed weave of washi and polyester. Has a characteristically dry feel. Features a zip on each side of the back hem for styling.

OZISM
QS TEE - 1

Three-quarter-sleeve tee featuring a “Shonan Yueiza” illustration of Yasujirō Ozu by illustrator Taku Yoshikawa.

©TAKU FURUKAWA／NPO SHONAN YUEIZA

WALKER EASY PANTS
COTTON PAPER VIERA OVERDYED
by GRAMICCI

These “WALKER EASY PANTS” by GRAMICCI × nonnative are tapered with one tuck, making for a relaxed silhouette.
Lightweight easy pants made from cotton/washi blend material that can be paired with the coat or jacket.

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