COVERCHORD FEATURE
Ernie Palo
AW 2023 COLLECTION
RYO YAMAGUCHI Special Interview
Showcasing Ernie Palo’s latest offering for Autumn & Winter
Plus, an exclusive interview with the designer behind the brand
Ernie Palo’s latest Autumn Winter collection, edition 06 is now available.
With a mission to explore identity within the realm of daily wear creations, this collection encapsulates the essence of the present while offering timeless pieces that will endure as style archives for generations to come.
Ernie Palo's approach often transcends the boundaries of gender, offering a range of clean and universally appealing items. Despite their fundamental nature, each piece boasts meticulous craftsmanship and an unwavering commitment to aesthetics, resulting in refined silhouettes that exude sophistication.
In this feature, we’ve put together a number of looks with Ernie Palo's latest collection at the forefront. Take a glimpse at these curated styles and let them inspire your next wardrobe addition.
We also catch up with Ryo Yamaguchi, designer of Ernie Palo for an insightful interview, touching on not only fashion but various facets of daily life.
Ernie Palo
AW 2023 COLLECTION
RYO YAMAGUCHI
Special Interview
It feels limiting to describe Ryo Yamaguchi merely as a clothing designer.
Anyone who has met him will say that his passion clearly extends far beyond the realm of fashion, to food, travel, and home, all aspects that influence his creative output.
It's safe to say that Ryo Yamaguchi embodies the persona that we at COVERCHORD like to showcase — a true connoisseur of the art of living.
We visit him at his sanctuary, MAISON CINQUANTECINQ, to gain a deeper understanding of his journey and the inspiration behind the latest collection.
— Could you share your earliest memory or experience that sparked your interest in clothing and fashion?
Hmm, it’s not like there was a particular item, like a pair of LEVI’s that got me into clothing…
But I remember being in fifth grade English class and watching musical movie, and really liking that vibe. At around the same time, the Japanese TV show was on, which featured the pop/hip-hop group Scha Dara Parr, and it was through these that I was introduced to skate culture, which might have been my real initial interest in fashion.
Coach jackets with painter pants and a pair of Converse Weapons, were the kinds of outfits I was rocking back then.
— Surprising! And it sounds like you had a keen interest at an early age.
Being an only child, I was quite envious of my friends who could say “I got this from my big brother,” but it also meant that I had to find things out on my own more.
From middle school through high school, I became really immersed in music.
Since the early days of starting a brand, what’s changed?
Certainly, my knowledge about craftsmanship has grown, and I've expanded my circle of friends and acquaintances in the industry. But fundamentally, I don’t think my core tastes have changed. There have been minor adjustments, of course.
As for my approach to relationships with people, I think it’s remained fairly consistent.
—Perhaps you’re a bit more sensible, in the best sense of the word?
I do prefer being straightforward and doing things properly, it makes me feel as though I’m heading in the right direction.
I don't consider myself a creative genius, and I enjoy competing in the realm of chic and authentic aesthetics.
I thought my tolerance level was quite high, but apparently not, according to the people around me (laughs).
Obviously, it depends on the context but when it comes to certain things, I can be pretty quick to say when I don’t like something.
— Your depth of knowledge seems to encompass all aspects of life, and you seem to have a particular sense of style through all these channels.
I think I’m the type of person who doesn't mind investing in high-quality items. This aligns with my experiences too; I prefer to allocate my time to things that will become assets in my life. It's not necessarily that I love new things, but rather, I'm drawn to things that haven't yet gained widespread attention.
This place, MAISON CINQUANTECINQ, is a reflection of it too, but I think that my breadth of interests is just an accumulation of the things and people I encounter through everyday life. There aren’t particular times or things that I hold as especially important; it's all about balance.
As I've grown older, my own opinions and logic have become more established, so I'm not easily swayed by others' opinions, and I've learned to discern the merits and demerits of things within myself.
— When you started Ernie Palo, there were some interesting collaborations including some glass objects with STUDIO PREPA and wine bottle cases with ZEPTEPI. What principles do you hold dear when it comes to collaborations, whether initiating or accepting them?
These collaborations took shape when my friend Chihiro Maruyama (owner of AELU gallery and MAISON CINQUANTECINQ), and I were discussing things we wanted to do together while starting Ernie Palo.
We wanted to bring people and things together that we genuinely like, whether they’re famous or not.
We’re fortunate to receive collaboration offers from various people but the fundamental question is whether we truly like it or not.
That's the prerequisite. We ensure that we don't get swayed by immediate gains and that we don't compromise on what we hold dear.
— I consider music to be as crucial as food and clothing, a vital element in shaping a person's style. I was surprised to hear Takuro Okada playing when I attended an Ernie Palo exhibition. It was the first time I'd ever heard Takuro Okada at a brand's exhibition.
Takuro Okada was on that playlist created based on the mood of that moment.
I listen to lots of different types of music and I can't say there's one particular genre that I adore consistently, but lately, I've been fond of ambient and drone music.
— Tell us about your ideal way to spend a day off.
I'm not the type of person who loves not thinking about work, so I don't really have strict 'on' and 'off’ days. I do like spending time with my child when I can.
Even though I work from home, I have a routine of waking up at a fixed time every morning and heading to my desk. But actually, this recent summer Obon holiday, I consciously decided to have a day where I would do nothing.
My wife and child had gone to visit her parents, so I thought I'd take it seriously easy that day.
Normally I don't take naps, but on that day, I lazed around on the sofa in the afternoon and tried my best to sleep. When I woke up, it was already dark in the room, and I had this feeling like, 'Wow, that was a serious nap!’ (laughs).
It was pretty refreshing, so I realized the value of spending time in that way too.
— I’m glad it was a good experience (laughs).
Do you cook at home?
Occasionally. Just yesterday, I made a salad, but I went a little overboard with the slicer... I ended up cutting my finger and it was the first time in a while that I saw blood, so I was quite disheartened (laughs).
Usually, I tend to eat out a lot.
— Ernie Palo is now in its sixth collection. Is there anything in particular that served as inspiration?
There isn't a pinpoint source of inspiration, but for this collection, I wanted to create a slightly classic mood. I used materials like tweed and moleskin, while also mixing in clean materials to ensure it didn't become too much.
The fundamental approach hasn't changed since the beginning, but with each season, we've increased the number of styles we make
Compared to the first season, the image for both men's and women's collections has become clearer, and I think the brand's character has gradually solidified.
— What is appealing to you about ‘basic’ items and what do you focus on when designing them?
The appeal lies in the versatility they offer for the wearer's character and styling. The points I focus on are materials and silhouettes.
— I'm always impressed by the meticulous craftsmanship and beautiful silhouettes each season.
Especially as a man handling the women's line, could you share how you approach designing clothes for women?
I place importance on finding a balance between my ideal vision and reality, and ensuring it doesn't become overly feminine.
I want to retain a masculine mood while ensuring that it fits a woman’s body well. But it can’t all be about the perfect fit because that’s boring - it needs an interesting angle too.
— A lot of unisex brands just offer smaller sizes for women.
Sure, that’s more straightforward, but I didn't want to create a women's line as a mere offshoot of the men's collection.
As a brand, I want people not just to ‘know’ or ‘have’ my clothing, but to genuinely love it too.
It's not just about delivering the products; it's about how you leave a lasting impression, isn't it?
— Please share what you’re interested in exploring and what the future holds for Ernie Palo.
I'd like to carry on creating what I like, and taking them to overseas locations through pop-ups and such.
Ryo Yamaguchi
Born in Fukushima Prefecture in 1982. Designer of Ernie Palo.
Established Ernie Palo in Spring/Summer 2021
Instagram_@ryo__yamaguchi
