COVERCHORD FEATURE

GUIDI × nonnative
CENTER ZIP BOOTS “BIG DADDY”
TAKAYUKI FUJII Special Interview

Now, an integral part of nonnative’s style
Designer Takayuki Fujii shares his thoughts on GUIDI

The brand name nonnative reflects the mindset of the designer, Takayuki Fujii.
Regardless of nationality, era, or trend, Fujii has consistently sought to pursue modern styles through quality products that defy easy categorization.

Despite his generally reserved demeanor, there are times when Fujii’s passion is tangible, and his love for the Italian shoemaker GUIDI is a prime example of this.

Why is Fujii, known for his straightforward aesthetic, so deeply drawn to the shoes of this brand? To understand, we need to go back before nonnative collaborates with GUIDI and delve into the roots of the story.

TAKAYUKI FUJII
Special Interview

I walked 20km a day
and my feet felt fine

― Today, you brought various items, from collaborations with nonnative to regular in-line products. Are these all your own shoes?

Yes, they’re all mine. I only brought the center-zip boots today, but I have about the same amount of back-zip versions at home.

― Looking at the sheer quantity, you clearly love these shoes, but, why are you so drawn to GUIDI? There are plenty of high-quality shoe brands out there, and who needs this many pairs? I know it's like something a mother would say (laughs).

(laughs) I wonder... It's probably the fit and how comfortable they are to wear… I think the shape is amazing. I also own shoes from Alden, John Lobb, J.M. Weston, but to be honest, I don't wear them much. I like that not many people wear GUIDI too.

Fujii’s shoes

― When was the first time you bought GUIDI shoes?

It was about 15 years ago. I saw a single-piece leather back-zip boot, and I was intrigued by its construction. Then I started wearing them and they were incredibly comfortable, and the way they wrinkled as they wore in, looked so cool.

― The younger generation may not be familiar, but that was the time when leather boots were a trend, especially this style with leather soles.

Yes, GUIDI, Carol Christian Poell, and others. Many people were wearing them with drop-crotch pants or tucking their pants in. At that time, GUIDI shoes were stocked by the sort of store that carried brands like Rick Owens. I’d say that at that time, there were a lot of shoes that looked like GUIDI imitations. But when you actually wear them, they are completely different, especially in terms of how they fit as you wear them in.

Fujii’s shoes

― As someone who designs shoes in-house and through collaborations, what makes GUIDI shoes so comfortable, do you think?

I think it's because GUIDI makes the shoes first, and then dyes them, which makes a big difference. Essentially, the leather is soaked in water, and it shrinks, so the lasts are created with that in mind. It also means it can't easily be imitated. Since the leather contracts, forming a shape with it requires some back and forth, like having a conversation (laughs).

― Interesting. Garment dyeing is quite common in clothing; but is it also used in shoes?

No, not really. Sneakers might be different, but leather shoes generally aren’t made to be dyed, they would break down. Most of the shoes lined up here are made from different types of leather, but the product dimensions are consistent. This means that the shrinkage rate is calculated for each leather, and it's properly molded into the last.

― I see. By the way, didn't you once put a pair of Guidi boots in the washing machine in your Instagram Stories?

Yes. When you wear them, the leather stretches, so washing them helps to shrink the leather again.

― I understand now, but I couldn’t believe it when I first saw it! I thought you were being incredibly careless (laughs).

No, no (laughs). On the contrary, considering the manufacturing process I mentioned earlier, I think it's a reasonable thing to do. But it would become a problem if people start breaking their shoes or washing machines doing this which is why I added the disclaimer saying “Do this at your own risk” (laughs). But, it makes the shoes fit like socks.

Fujii’s shoes

― It sounds as though GUIDI has a deep understanding of working with leather.

It’s because they were a well-established leather manufacturer, called GUIDI & ROSELLINI, before they started making shoes.

― Oh, I see! That makes sense now. But, sneakers have become so common and we’re all so used to their comfort, it might take people some courage to wear leather shoes again.

But well-fitted GUIDI shoes are really comfortable. I recently went to Paris for work and I wore GUIDI boots the whole time and it was fine. I was walking about 20 km, or around 23,000 steps per day.

― What!? That much?

Especially in Europe, where there are many cobblestone streets, I don't take sneakers. I feel like they tire my feet out more. Lately, when I travel abroad, bringing three pairs of GUIDI with center zips and back zips has become normal for me. It does make my luggage about 8 kg heavier, though.

― So even with the extra weight, you’d rather wear GUIDI when you’re away?

Yeah. With shoes that fit well, even if they're heavy, you don't get tired. GUIDI keeps everything secure from the ankle to the instep.

When I was talking with Jonio,
we discovered that GUIDI is where we find common ground

― Your love for GUIDI has been well conveyed, and it's been quite a while since the collaboration between nonnative and GUIDI started, hasn't it?

It started in 2019. We placed the order before the onset of the pandemic, then it was released during the pandemic. We planned both the center zip and back zip versions, and the center zip was the first to hit the market. I was a bit nervous internally, wondering how well leather shoes priced at over 200,000 yen would sell, but to my surprise, they sold out in an instant.

nonnative × GUIDI（2020）

― How did the first collaboration model come about?

It started when I asked GUIDI if they were able to use VIBRAM soles. Now, there are plenty of GUIDI models with VIBRAM soles, even in the inline collection, but at that time, there weren't any. I thought that using VIBRAM might broaden its use, especially considering the practicality compared to leather soles.

― What was the reaction from those around you and customers when it was produced?

Quite a few people said that although they’d been interested in GUIDI before, they didn’t feel they could wear them. But with a VIBRAM sole, they are somehow more accessible. I personally had been wearing them before, and the thinness of the sole was something that bothered me a little.

nonnative × GUIDI（2022）

― It's amazing how just changing the sole drastically changes the vibe. Has the leather also been changed?

Actually, I don’t specify the leather. GUIDI changes the leather based on the color. It could be horse, cow, baby calf, and so on. I think this soft one is probably deer leather.

― Since the parent company is a leather workshop, it's better to leave that part to them.

Yes. There's also a rule that certain colors used in collaborations with other brands cannot be used. For example, we might be told that a reddish brown is already used by UNDERCOVER, but we can use a slightly different shade. Conversely, colors used by us may not be available for other brands.

― Sounds like they’re maintaining exclusivity in that way. Speaking of UNDERCOVER, GUIDI boots feature in the collaboration line OZISIM that you and Jonio-san are doing too, right?

When we first discussed doing something together with UNDERCOVER, Jonio and I talked about our common ground being GUIDI. We have quite different styles, but we both love GUIDI. Jonio particularly liked the back zip, so we created that for the first season, and I like the center zip, so we made that this season.

nonnative × UNDERCOVER “OZISM”
CENTER ZIP BOOTS “BIG DADDY" HORSE LEATHER
BY GUIDI（2023）

― It's wonderful how a shared love for something can connect us. And it seems like it’s a mutually supportive relationship where neither side leans too much on the other.

When I do collaborations, not just with GUIDI but in general, the other party is often a bit hesitant to begin with, because I tend to propose things that haven't been done before. But when the actual samples come in, they go, "Ah, so this is how it turns out." Without that surprise element, it's not meaningful. If I only did things where the finished result could be easily anticipated, it wouldn't be a learning experience.

― Yes, I was surprised when I first saw GUIDI with VIBRAM soles at the nonnative exhibition, but now it feels completely natural.

I’d say that’s my job. Sometimes people say, “You were ahead of your time," when something I did becomes commonplace after a few years, but maybe I'm just a bit off (laughs).

― (laughs) I suppose you get the most interesting results that way, though it could be difficult asking people to do things they’ve never really done before.

Yes, I think so. I think things work out well because I genuinely love what I do.

Takayuki Fujii
Born in 1976 in Nara Prefecture. After dropping out of art college, he worked at several shops before joining nonnative as designer in 2001.

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Interview & Text_Rui Konno

nonnative × UNDERCOVER “OZISM”
CENTER ZIP BOOTS “BIG DADDY”
HORSE LEATHER
by GUIDI

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