COVERCHORD FEATURE
BISOWN
SS 2025 COLLECTION
Yuka Nakade Special Interview
New unisex brand BISOWN joins this season
Unveiling its charm with designer Yuka Nakade
BISOWN is a unisex brand newly introduced to the COVERCHORD lineup this season.
With a focus on clothes that enrich daily life―relaxed yet refined pieces for both dressed-up and everyday wear―the brand blends traditional, Japanese, and Western aesthetics.
Each piece is crafted using original fabrics from regions across Japan, expressing the strength, beauty, and fleeting quality of nature.
We spoke with designer Yuka Nakade to learn more about the inspirations and ideas behind BISOWN.
Yuka Nakade
Special Interview
― Could you tell us how you first became interested in fashion?
I think my love for clothing started when I was very young, probably influenced by my grandfather who used to run a clothing store. Although he had already closed the shop by then, he was always stylish and cool, and I admired him. Since I was a child, I used to say that I wanted to run a clothing store someday.
My deeper interest in fashion began when I was in elementary school. For some reason, my father gave me a fashion magazine. I had heard of some of the brands before, but it was the first time I saw them in a fashion context. Everything in the magazine was so inspiring that I read it over and over again. I remember realizing there was a whole world I didn't know about, and my interest in fashion kept growing.
― You've worked in various roles in fashion, from sales associate to store manager, buyer, and brand director. How did you come to start your own brand, BISOWN?
I've always wanted to have my own brand. At one point, there was talk about discontinuing the brand I had launched at my previous job, and I thought maybe this was the right time. It coincided with my pregnancy, so I was a bit hesitant. However, I had many people I had worked with and others who supported me, so I was encouraged to take the plunge and start BISOWN.
― Could you tell us about the origin and concept behind the brand name?
The name BISOWN is a made-up word inspired by the ideas of “BISOU” (beautiful dressing) and “NISSOU” (everyday wear). It reflects the desire to go through daily life dressed with intention and grace. The name also echoes the English word “sow,” as in planting seeds―symbolizing the foundation of one’s values, what connects to the future, and what we hope to carry forward.
Launched in collaboration with a textile converter specializing in fabric development, BISOWN centers on using high-quality materials made in various regions across Japan―each one unique to its local culture and season.
― What are some of BISOWN’s signature items?
We’ve been making denim since our very first collection. The silhouette stays mostly the same, but we offer both rigid and washed styles. Our jackets are also core pieces―we release them each season with different materials or updated shapes, so they could definitely be considered signatures. I always try to mix in items that balance out those cleaner, more minimal designs―pieces that add a casual or unexpected touch to the overall styling.
― What are some of the unique details that set BISOWN’s denim and jackets apart?
For our jackets, we work with a tailored factory to ensure they’re beautifully made, but we’re also careful with the sizing and fabric choices each season so that they don’t feel too formal―they’re meant to be easy and relaxed to wear. As for the denim, we wanted something strong and durable, in line with its roots as workwear, so we chose a solid 14.5 oz fabric, like what you’d find in Levi’s and other classic jeans.
We also put a lot of care into achieving a clean silhouette that’s distinct from vintage denim. We work closely with a trusted pattern maker to get the fit just right. The standard cut is straight―not too slim, not too wide―and we’ve also intentionally avoided a high-rise fit. The idea is for them to be worn for years, so we went for a just-right, classic waist.
― What aspects do you pay particular attention to when designing?
By designing unisex pieces, I try to bring in elements that reflect my own sensibility. For example, when working on more masculine items, I sometimes ask a male pattern maker to create a piece for women. On the other hand, when I want to add more feminine curves to a menswear item, I’ll ask a female pattern maker to collaborate. I believe true individuality often comes through in the subtle details that may not be immediately noticeable.
― As a unisex brand, how do you approach designing menswear from a woman’s perspective?
When I design menswear, I feel that, as a woman, I naturally introduce a slight sense of contrast or subtle difference―something that creates a unique creative touch. For women’s items, I’m always thinking about how to achieve a beautiful balance when styling menswear-inspired pieces on the female body.
I personally love menswear, but I don’t wear it head-to-toe. I like to suggest silhouettes and styling ideas that let women wear masculine items in a feminine way―for instance, layering a bustier over a men’s shirt to bring out a soft contrast.
― Have your previous roles, such as sales staff or buyer, influenced how you approach product design?
Definitely. Everything I’ve seen and worn over the years has shaped how I think about clothes. As a buyer, I was always focused on creating items that would genuinely resonate with the customers who visited the store―and I think that perspective is still present in BISOWN. Take this season’s jacket, for example. With the seasons for wearing jackets―spring and fall―getting shorter, I wanted to make something you could wear comfortably even in midsummer. So I chose a lightweight, breathable fabric that still feels refined.
In our visuals, we’ve styled the jacket tucked in like a shirt, which really shows the versatility that comes from using this kind of material. I hope to keep exploring styling ideas that make the most of these subtle details.
― What does this season’s theme “Gemütlichkeit” mean to you?
“Gemütlichkeit” is a German word that conveys feelings of comfort, ease, and familiarity. Comfort has always been a core part of BISOWN’s identity, but this season I wanted to lean into it even more, which is why I chose it as the theme.
I’ve always been drawn to German culture―especially architecture and interior design―and I think that naturally influenced the direction. Also, I happened to come across a street snap of a German girl whose outfit left a strong impression on me. It wasn’t a direct inspiration, but moments like that definitely helped shape the mood of the collection.
― Are there any specific pieces or styling choices that reflect those inspirations?
German product design gives me the impression of being sturdy and minimal, and I was especially inspired by the way they use steel. I tried to bring that feeling into the collection―for example, pairing a clean, refined fabric for a jacket with metal buttons to give it a bit of contrast.
That street snap I mentioned, with wide pants styled in a streetwear way and two-tone coin loafers, really stuck with me. So this season, I made a pair of wide pants. In overseas styling, it’s easy to wear them with a cropped T-shirt and make it look balanced. But I felt like that could look too youthful on Japanese body types, so I also created tops with a longer, vertical silhouette to pair nicely with the pants.
― Where do you usually find inspiration?
I used to visit museums and go see photography and art exhibitions often, but lately I haven’t had much time. So instead, I flip through photo books I’ve collected over the years or browse through overseas street snaps online or on social media. I combine bits of old and new information around me to develop new idea.
― How do you choose fabrics for each piece?
At the core, I want to use Japanese textiles that we can be proud of globally. From there, I match materials that feel fresh or a little unexpected with what I want to make―or I develop original fabrics from scratch if needed. When choosing fabrics, I not only consider comfort, but also test how they feel after washing and whether they’ll wear out with time.
― Do you have a core theme when it comes to your personal style?
There aren’t any strict rules, as I wear all kinds of things, but I’m especially drawn to classic, traditional, or mannish pieces. I’m naturally conscious of how I can wear those in a way that feels personal to me.
― What kind of items are you personally drawn to?
It’s hard to pick just one because I tend to think in terms of full looks, but I’m always captivated by things like jackets with beautifully tailored sleeves or antique blouses made by hand―items that just couldn’t be made in today’s world. There’s a kind of sculptural beauty that makes me not only want to wear them, but feel compelled to own them.
― You split your time between Osaka and Tokyo. What does your typical day look like?
Usually I wake up, feed my daughter breakfast, and take her to daycare. Then I come home, eat breakfast with my husband, and start work. In the evening, I pick up my daughter, we have dinner, take a bath, and I put her to bed. After that is finally my own time. When I have the energy, I like to watch movies.
― How do you refresh or reset during your busy schedule?
Since moving to Osaka, our environment has changed a lot, so on my days off, I make a point to go out with my family. Kyoto and Kobe are close by, and if we drive about an hour, we can reach places like Tamba Sasayama―beautiful nature spots I’d never been to before. It feels fresh and really helps me reset.
― What kind of people do you find inspiring?
It’s often in the small things―how someone carries themselves, the way they speak, the atmosphere around them. People who move or speak beautifully really leave an impression. I’m also drawn to people who are endlessly curious. One person I really admire is stylist Michiko Kitamura. She’s from Ishikawa, like me, so I’ve been aware of her for a long time. When I happened to meet her once, I was struck by her incredible presence. I find myself drawn to people who remain true to themselves and continue to pursue their curiosity no matter their age.
― Is there anything you personally value in life?
Taking action to make the things I want to do a reality. I think I am where I am now because of that mindset.
― Is there anything you’d like to try in the future?
Of course, I’d love for the brand to continue for a long time. But rather than focusing only on longevity, I want to stay grounded in the present. I also really enjoyed my time in buying, so I’d like to explore creative projects beyond just my own brand in the future.
Yuka Nakade
After starting her career in the apparel industry straight out of school, Yuka Nakade has worked across various roles including sales associate, store manager, buyer, and brand director. She served as a buyer for select shop 1LDK and as designer and director for BLOOM & BRANCH. In Spring/Summer 2024, she launched her own brand, BISOWN.
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Text_Mikiko Ichitani
