COVERCHORD FEATURE

MARMOT CAPITAL
AW 2023 COLLECTION
KIKUNO Special Interview

We sit down with Kikuno, the director of MARMOT CAPITAL
To discuss the new brand which launched last month

Drawing from the archives of the outdoor brand Marmot, a fresh line named MARMOT CAPITAL has been tailored to bridge the gap from the great outdoors to urban streets.

Guided by the vision of Kikuno, the multifaceted talent known for her roles as designer, creative director, and model, this new brand is set to redefine outdoor gear as daily wear.

In this exclusive interview we sit down with Kikuno, who opens up about her brand's aspirations and her own creative vision, offering insights into her unique personal style and worldview.

KIKUNO
Special Interview

— How did you become the director of MARMOT CAPITAL?

I met the person responsible for this project while working at UNITED ARROWS & SONS and they offered me the role. I handle the brand's overall direction and planning, including the visual direction for social media, and around half of the design. While the first collection features some designs that are improved versions of archive pieces, the majority consists of entirely new creations. I've enjoyed a high degree of creative freedom to bring my ideas to life with few constraints.

— What does MARMOT CAPITAL symbolize?

The original brand Marmot is written with only the letter "M" capitalized. We wanted a new logo for a fresh start, and our request was approved. I couldn’t see myself directing as part of the main line, so we were happy we could create something entirely separate and new.
This line, MARMOT, is presented in all caps. Initially we were referring to the project as “MARMOT in caps”, to differentiate between the two, without giving it much thought. Then, over time, it started to sound like a cool alias.
I also thought that it would be funny if a long time from now, people could talk about “the random line designed by a Japanese woman which was called MARMOT, but in caps”. Which is why it became part of the brand name, MARMOT CAPITAL.

— The brand offers unisex clothing designed for outdoor and urban settings, with the concept of “COMFORT and FREEDOM.” Could you elaborate on your inspiration behind this?

"COMFORT and FREEDOM” serves as more than just a brand concept; it embodies my personal style and serves as my philosophy. It is a way for me to express myself. While we employ materials that are focused on outdoor use, our designs bridge the gap to accommodate urban wear.

These garments are equipped for mountain climbing, but can just as easily be worn with slacks in the city. We've integrated lots of drawstrings to provide flexibility in size and silhouette to work with the rest of the outfit. I firmly believe in the value of providing abundant options, be it in terms of size variations or personal styling, and that's the driving force behind my design approach.
Individuals possess their unique preferences when it comes to fashion, and our aim is to empower them with choice. How you wear something, what you wear it with, and where you wear it are entirely the individuals choice. Getting a GORE-TEX jacket from our brand might open doors to new possibilities, such as contemplating an expedition to the mountains.
I want people to not only wear our clothing but also experience the sensations it elicits, the sense of embarking on new adventures, and the empowerment it brings. So, I don’t prescribe a specific styling approach; instead, I hope that this brand serves as a gateway to newfound possibilities and creative expressions for each individual wearer.

— How have you inputted your distinct originality?

As a director, I believe it's crucial to infuse meaning into my work, otherwise it’s pointless. I don't have an extensive background in outdoor activities, so I've only ever thought of clothing from the perspective of everyday wear.
The strength of outdoor brands undoubtedly lies in their materials, such as GORE-TEX and POLARTEC® and I think many people are still not too familiar with their qualities, so its something I want to showcase.
I've chosen bright colors, including my identity-defining shade of purple, and even though pieces like fleece pants may not look initially outdoorsy in terms of silhouette, they are made from POLARTEC® fabric. Incorporating these street and city elements is what I consider to be the injection of my personal style.

— What interesting or challenging aspects have you found to being a director?

I think I'm well-suited for this job. Clear decisions need to be made with yes or no answers, which I find quite satisfying. I’m involved with directing some other brands too, there’s typically an already-established brand image and my task is to bring creative visions to life within that framework, so it’s not overly challenging. As for MARMOT, I haven’t seen the public’s reaction yet. Of course I have some small concerns like whether everything will go smoothly, but when it comes to my choices, such as colors and concepts, I feel confident. I believe I've created something good, and that's what matters to me.

— Do you have any rules for your own style?

I like a style that doesn't neatly fit into any specific category. I really dislike being pigeonholed into having, say, a streetwear or vintage look. I prefer to be in a space that's not quite like anything else, right in the middle, with a good balance. I consciously aim for a look that doesn't resemble anything else. Even though I wear a lot of men's clothing, I ensure there's a feminine touch to it.
This is something I've only recently become good at. When you wear only men's clothes, you can end up looking like a typical street-style girl. So, I choose things like gold accessories, quality bags and shoes to maintain a balance. I focus on femininity and balance. I also have my favorite silhouettes, and I choose my clothing accordingly. I'm mindful of my body shape and the fit of garments, so I'll tuck in a T-shirt just a bit or I'll consider the length of pants.
I often make alterations to ensure that I can wear clothes in a way that suits me best. I think my style has developed over time, through practice and accumulated experience.

— You share personal activities through social media as well, which requires a certain sense and sensitivity. What do you consciously focus on when sharing content?

I actually have a certain level of embarrassment when it comes to sharing on social media. I might be trying to cover that up in a way. If I manage to take a cute selfie, I would like to post it on my feed, but then I think it’s really cringey.
I guess I’m just not that comfortable with it. For both YouTube and Instagram, the private side I share has to have a sense of humor, otherwise it’s dull. I try to present content in a genuine way, showing what things are like when seen through my perspective.
Cute and stylish is fine, but it’s much more interesting when someone’s actual character or sense of humor can be felt through pictures and captions. I don’t think I’m particularly funny but I’m doing what only I can do and there’s value in that.
It's an aspect of living in this era, and bringing out your unique flavor is what makes it interesting, and I’m glad when I receive recognition for that. It feels like I'm crafting my own image with my own hands.

— Whose sense of style do you admire?

I’d say Chloë Sevigny is a role model. I also like Sofia Coppola and Petra Collins. I think their paths in life are so interesting.
Chloe also has a street culture connection, so I sometimes try to relate that aspect to myself.

—From what we see, there doesn’t appear to be a clear boundary between your work and personal life, but have you set any rules for yourself in that aspect?

I do try not to work too much. As a freelancer I could be working 24/7, but I want time to lie on the sofa and not think about anything.
So I make sure to take weekends off. I travel, exercise, go running, take time to chill, which are basic but important things.
But, I love fashion and I love my work so I don’t get too stressed or worried. I think I’ve found a good balance.

—What are you currently interested in?

Managing my health. I think I like to manage things. “My hobby/specialty is health!” I say this a lot, and it relates to mental health too. When I don't get enough sleep, my energy decreases and my mental health deteriorates.
It’s a vicious cycle so I try to stay as healthy as possible. I go to the gym, take an hour-long walk in the morning, make sure to get enough sleep and eat three meals a day. It's important to do the basics properly.
Doing extra things doesn't work if they're not sustainable. I think I've found a healthy lifestyle that suits me. Now, I go to bed early, between 10 PM and midnight, and wake up at 5 AM or 6 AM. Early nights and mornings suit me well and I'm glad I’ve found what works for me.

—What kind of person do you want to be in the next 10 years, and are there any challenges you'd like to take on?

I haven't really thought about it much. I’m content with the present, so I hope I can keep stacking up each moment as they come and feel the same way in 10 years time. I'm not good at thinking about the future, and even if I do, who knows what will actually happen.
I have vague hopes. I'd like to live in a place with more nature, and be able to spend more time abroad. I want to see more of the world and feel how small a part I am of something much bigger.
Tokyo is small, and the Tokyo seen from abroad is a completely different place to the Tokyo I see when I’m in it. I want to see Japan from a foreign perspective, which I why I want to go overseas.

Kikuno
Born in Tokyo.
Exposed to music and street culture from a young age. Spent 4 years in San Francisco and London from age 19 after majoring in photography. Launched PURPLE THINGS in 2015 and works in brand direction and as a model.

YouTube_STAYINBED
Instagram_@kiki_sun

Interview & Text_Maiko Okuhara
Photography_Hideaki Nagata

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