COVERCHORD FEATURE

nonnative × UNDERCOVER
OZISM
2024 SS COLLECTION vol.3

Focusing on two sturdy shoe models and their background,
quietly expressing their stance through a balance of functionality and aesthetics.

Fashion label OZISM was first revealed by Jun Takahashi of Undercover, and nonnative designer, Takayuki Fujii, in 2022. The first release from their collaboration was comprised of a select number of items, focused on samue style garments made with Polartec fleece.Now, the third installment of their OZISM collaboration has just been announced.

Over this three-part series, we will explore the origins of the collaborative monozukuri undertaken by these two designers. While they have both been in the fashion world for a long time, OZISM is distinctive from their respective brands. We will also delve into this spring’s collection, the highlight of which is its use of washi paper and natural kusakizome (plant dye) techniques in the garment fabrication.

Text_ Rui Konno
Editor. Born in 1987. Active primarily in the fashion field.

THEMATIC REPORT
#3 SHOES

Unveiling the complete picture of the label OZISM, which deviates from the conventional practices of existing collection releases and fashion business norms, through a comprehensive three-part series.

In the final installment, we focus on two sturdy shoe models and their background, which quietly express their stance through a balance of functionality and aesthetics.

RIG

RIG is the first recovery sandal brand in Japan, founded in 2019. It develops its products specifically to reduce the stress caused by activities such as trail running, MTB, road biking, and triathlon.

OZISM's rig

Designer Takayuki Fujii stumbled upon rig’s sandals in an outdoor shop, and his strong interest led to a collaboration with nonnative. Both Jun Takahashi and Fujii frequently used the same model in their daily lives, which led to its feature in OZISM. The style is an original design created specifically for this project, featuring a thong type reminiscent of traditional Japanese SETTA, which is not found in regular rig products. The thick, highly cushioned footbed and sole have been developed by rig over many years, even before the brand was established. The colors of the sandal uppers have been coordinated with the plant-dyed wear featured in this OZISM collection. Although they may seem like slip-on sandals, they are designed with a back strap for more active movements.

SAMU and SETTA
―Testimony of Anjin Suhara, the Head of Legal at Engakuji

"Being born in a temple, entering the Buddhist monastic life was a natural path for me. I studied under my grandfather, who was the chief priest, and during my training period, I wore geta. I recognized setta as something monks wore. Even now, I usually do the daily morning cleaning barefoot with setta, but for special occasions, I switch to clean setta to tighten my mindset. For me, the work clothes are not for guests but are formal work attire. In the past, it seems that as long as the clothing was durable, anything was acceptable for work within the temple grounds. This was especially true during times of poverty. For real formal wear, we wear tabi, so setta are strictly for everyday use. We are so accustomed to these thong sandals that they are more comfortable than leather shoes."

GUIDI

GUIDI's roots date back to 1896, when the leather tannery CONCERIA GUIDI ROSELLIN was founded in Tuscany, Italy. In the early 2000s, the current owner of the family-run business, Ruggero Guidi, began developing a unique line of accessories and footwear, fusing the tannery's heritage of traditional craftsmanship with the introduction of new and innovative technologies.

OZISM's GUIDI

Since its inception in 2022, OZISM has been creating custom GUIDI footwear as a staple for its collection. Previously, styles included front-zip and back-zip variations, but this time OZISM is offering trekking boots in colorways that match its apparel. These boots follow the robust Norwegian-welted construction, allowing for long-term wear through sole replacement. The outsoles feature Vibram soles, with the front lugs designed to be almost hidden when worn, and a lower heel for easier wear. The mid-height boots, with two speed hooks above the lace holes, were designed by Fujii to complement both full-length pants and summer shorts. The uppers are made of durable horse suede.

At the factory in Pescia, Tuscany

GUIDI employs a unique method they call "object dyeing," which involves tumbling the shoes after they are made to achieve their distinctive color.
The shoes are crafted at a dedicated factory separate from their own tannery, then returned to the tannery for the object dyeing process. This specialized shoemaking technique still requires a significant amount of handwork. Through post-dyeing brushing, GUIDI's raw yet beautiful appearance is created.

nonnative × UNDERCOVER
OZISM
2024 SPRING - SUMMER COLLECTION
3rd DELIVERY

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